During my exchange year in France in 2003, I wrote my second term paper
on the triangle of streets in the 13th arrondissement known as the
"Chinatown of Paris". Towards the end of my stay there, while winter
was in full swing, I made frequent trips to the Tang Freres supermarket
in the 13th, catching the suburban train then snaking through the metro
lines to source hotpot ingredients such as soft tofu, Chinese cabbage,
Japanese mushrooms and udon noodles. With the commute clocking just
over three hours there and back, my lazy side always found unnaturally huge heads
of cabbage to buy; so big they never fit in my backpack and had to be taken
back to campus cradled in my arms.
The unique thing about the Chinatown in Paris is it's so different from
its cousins in Sydney, San Francisco and New York City. It was
developed during the late 70s/early 80s by Vietnamese "boat people"
migrants who only labeled the area "Chinatown" to market it as an inviting
ethnic enclave to mainstream Parisians. With these humble beginnings, the area doesn't bear
much resemblance to its international counterparts. No regal Cantonese
yum cha (dim sum) restaurants and no flashy Asian supermarkets.
The closest thing is the Tang Freres chain, which imports goods for the Asian population and is the largest Asian supermarket in France. The stores and an adjoining bakery are housed inside
warehouse-style buildings with unassuming store signs painted in red. No electric signs here.
While much of the area surrounding the Triangle can be described as a concrete wonderland, the community vibe is still strong, especially on warm days when the wide, tree-lined sidewalks and park benches really got happening.
Ironically, the local McDonalds is the only building with a hint of Asian architecture.
And the end result! My vegetarian hotpots not only helped keep me warm in the cold weather but also fought off homesickness. It doesn't look like much, but it was the only "Chinese" dish I was able to make European friends. Oh, the shame. Yeah, I know, I know, it's just boiling.
And that's the end of the slideshow...
Postscript: I spent ages tonight writing this up, resizing photos, uploading photos and other blog stuff you don't give a crap about. And then when I went to post the damn thing, Typepad crashed! I was so freaking peed off I had to go drink a hot chocolate and watch an episode of Queer Eye. Then I came back and rewrote the post like a good blogger. Damn you, Typepad!
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